Bangkok’s Thai food scene is a regional melting pot. Spicy larb and som tum papaya salads dominate the menus of the city’s countless northeastern Thai (also known as Isan) restaurants, and you’ll find plenty of places serving up the seafood-rich curries the southern provinces are famous for. Northern food, however, is far less ubiquitous. That’s what makes Gedhawa, hidden behind a tangle of greenery in a quiet corner of the Phrom Phong district, such a standout. For almost three decades, this unfussy, home-style spot has been championing the bold flavors…
