You’d be hard-pressed to find a restaurant less atmospheric than Gai Tord Jae Kee (more commonly referred to as Soi Polo Fried Chicken), a stone’s throw west of central Bangkok’s Lumpini Park. With walls bedecked in glossy granite, stainless steel furniture, and fluorescent lighting that makes a suburban tax office look cozy in comparison, this is hardly the place for a date-night dinner. But take one bite of its eponymous signature, the fried chicken, and you’ll understand why hungry Bangkokians have flocked here for generations. Jae Kee’s birds are marinated…
