This beloved shophouse restaurant just off Chinatown’s neon-glowing main drag has been honing the art of the perfect hoi tod, or oyster omelet, for more than three decades. Made from plump, briny bivalves, eggs, and a pancake-like batter thickened with rice flour for extra chew, Nai Mong’s star dish is much crispier and lighter than the oil-soaked versions you’ll often find elsewhere. There are just a few options on the menu: order your omelet with fresh oysters or mussels, and choose between the barely-set orsuan version, or the crisp-edged, wok-smoky…
