The legend goes that, in 1930s Hong Kong, a foreign customer at Tai Ping Koon Restaurant couldn’t remember the name of a menu item and asked for “sweet wings,” which a waiter misheard as “Swiss wings.” It’s likely apocryphal, but the name and the dish—chicken wings in a sweet/salty/savory glaze—became one, and Swiss wings are now a Hong Kong classic, found at restaurants across the territory. At Tai Ping Koon, the place where the dish was invented, the wings are seasoned with bay leaf, rock sugar, Chinese wine, and two…
