Follow the flames. Oi Man Sang, a restaurant in Hong Kong, can be located by the fire and smoke that emerges from its streetside, semi-open-air kitchen. Restaurants like this were once common in Hong Kong. They were known as dai pai dong, and at their peak, numbered in the hundreds. As early as the 1940s, Hong Kong’s health department started banning them, refusing to offer the “big license” (the eponymous dai pai) that permitted them to operate on the street, and today Oi Man Sang is one of an estimated…
