Midcentury America's Most Scandalous Salad

This article is adapted from the February 22, 2025, edition of Gastro Obscura’s Favorite Things newsletter. You can sign up here. In 2014, around Thanksgiving, talk-show host Ellen Degeneres showed her audience a photo of a mid-century American dish. “There’s something called a ‘Candle Salad.’ This is real,” she said, while the studio audience howled with laughter. “It is made with banana and pineapple … and mistakes. I tried it once. It was not my thing.” For the uninitiated, this “salad”—I’m using the term loosely here—would look right at home…

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